Faruque Hasan
Technology and the future of Bangladesh’s apparel industry
Bangladesh has drawn global attention as a “development surprise,” thanks to our impressive economic performance – with an average GDP growth of over 7% for the last two years — and improvements in other socio-economic parameters.
It has already attainted the status of lower middle-income country and made tangible progress in the areas of industrialization, education, health, trade, infrastructure, energy and power, ICT and other service sectors.
According to PWC’s predictions, Bangladesh will be the 28th largest economy by 2030.
Industrial development has a major role to play in realizing this potential as it will be a key driver of our economic growth. The ready-made garments (RMG) industry of Bangladesh has considerable strengths and immense potentials to complement this growth.
The RMG industry has been the flagship of our manufacturing sector, accounting for more than 81% of our total exports.
The industry has made significant contributions to our nation’s socio-economic development in terms of employment generation, poverty alleviation, women empowerment, girls’ education, reducing child marriage rate and many more.
Growth in the global apparel market is expected to pick up again over the coming years after a period of decline in global apparel trade in recent years.
Apparel buyers are looking for alternative sources — faster, more sustainable and technologically compatible manufacturing sources.
The world is rapidly changing as it under goes the fourth industrial revolution where smart technologies will redefine economic activity and usher us into a new era.
Today technology does not mean only machines to improve productivity, energy and resource efficiency, but also in the area of managing supply chain, retailing online and smart clothing.
When we look at our industry on a perspective of global advancement, we find ourselves significantly lagging behind; although, quite encouragingly, our factories have started moving from semi-automatic to more automatic set-up.
Low liquor dyeing machine, ozone washing machines, SAP, ERP and such technologies are already becoming common.
Moreover our progress in eco-friendly industrialization has gained significant momentum in recent years. We have now 67 green factories certified by the United States Green Building Council, of which 13 are platinum.
Moreover, 280 more factories are in the pipeline for getting USGBC certification and many more are preparing for it.
Keeping up with tech
While it’s excellent that we are responding to environmental needs, we must also make use of new patterns and fourth generation technologies including the advanced applications of information technologies in our supply chain management, ie IOT (internet of things).
At the same time we have to enhance our productivity and efficiency, which requires technology upgrades and modernization of factories.
Speed and optimum use of resources will be the key to future business success and sustainability. Looking further forward, 3D printing technologies is anticipated to bring major disruption in fashion manufacturing and retailing.
It’s important not to get complacent about the fact that China is gradually shifting from basic to mid-range apparel because of growing production costs. While this may be an opportunity for us to grow our market share in basic apparel, it can also keep us trapped in the lower-end of the market, as China gets relatively richer by selling more expensive apparel.
We should, therefore, closely observe how China is re-structuring their industry through the use of new technology, automation, and advanced robotics to gain more competitive advantage and offer innovative products at lower prices.
Diversification of fashion items and innovation is a critical area for our long term growth sustainability. It’s a good sign that Bangladesh is gearing up to cater to the needs of high-end and branded fashion segments.
In recent years, our RMG exports have expanded to include items like suits and blazers, lingerie, active-wear and outerwear, and non-cotton items. We have to reduce our dependence on basic products and build our capacity ourselves to meet the demand of high-end and branded fashion segments in order to accelerate the industry’s growth.
Considering the importance of technological upgrades for the future success of apparel industries, our competing countries have introduced special policy support like the Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS) for the garment and textile industry in India.
Bangladesh has made tremendous progress in digital transformation over the last decade under the government’s “Digital Bangladesh” initiative; we have to now reap the benefits of digitalization by embedding it in our industry for which we need policy support.
This will ultimately result in more export earnings for the country. Besides, our entrepreneurs need to be up-to-date about the latest technological advances in the industry and proactive in embracing them.
Improve skills
Bangladesh is now passing through a golden age in term of its population dividend. About 70% of our population is under 40.
While there is a concern about technologies killing jobs, we should rather be more concerned about why a significant part of our talented youths are unemployed whereas a good number of foreign experts are working in Bangladesh in highly-paid managerial positions.
The gap between our education system and industry needs to close. We need to identify the gap between demand and supply for skills, factoring in the changing needs of industry in the near-future.
We need a stronger collaboration between manufacturers, buyers and experts to identify present and future needs in terms of skills in the job market.
We need a harmonious balance of informed policy, appropriate institutional framework, and efficient allocation of resources to produce market-driven skills.
Needless to say that Bangladesh has successfully faced a number of challenges in its 35 years’ of experience in apparel manufacturing, including the elimination of child labour in 1994, and made progress in the areas of social compliance.
Currently we are working on workplace safety and environmental sustainability issues. We are working with the government, ILO, brands & retailers, donors, international agencies and foreign governments to ensure workplace safety factory by factory.
Today we are proud to say that Bangladesh is in a new era of industrialization having probably one of the safest apparel industries.
While we are taking all these positive steps and our factories are increasingly investing money in safety and sustainability, we are still living in the age of price cuts!
In a highly competitive free market economy, prices cannot be dictated by individual producers. But at the same time, the price must be high enough to ensure that workers are paid a fair, living-wage.
Since technological advancement would be a new horizon of opportunities for all the partners in the global fashion supply chain, there needs to be a collaborative approach between buyers and suppliers supported by the government and development partners so that it creates a win-win situation for all.
The opportunities in global sourcing can only be tapped into when there is collective and collaborative action by stakeholders across the global value chain.
技术与孟加拉服装业的未来
由于我们令人印象深刻的经济表现,孟加拉吸引了全球的关注,这是一个“发展惊喜”。过去两年平均国内生产总值增长超过7%,以及其他社会经济参数的改善。
它已经获得了较低的中等收入国家的地位和在产业化、教育、卫生、经贸、基础设施领域取得切实进展,能源和电力,通信和其他服务业。
根据普华永道的预测,到2030年底,孟加拉将成为世界第二十八大经济体。
工业发展在实现这一潜力方面可以发挥重要作用,因为它将成为我们经济增长的关键动力。成衣(RMG)孟加拉产业具有相当的优势和巨大的潜力,补充这一增长。
成衣业一直是我国制造业的旗舰,超过我国出口总额的81%核算。
该行业在就业产生、减轻贫困、赋予妇女权力、女童教育、降低儿童结婚率等方面为我国的社会经济发展作出了重大贡献。
近年来,全球服装贸易出现下滑,预计全球服装市场的增长将在未来几年再次回升。
服装买家正在寻找替代来源——更快、更可持续和技术兼容的制造资源。
随着第四次工业革命的到来,世界正在迅速变化,智能技术将重新定义经济活动并引领我们进入一个新时代。
今天,技术并不意味着只有提高生产力、能源和资源效率的机器,而且还包括管理供应链、零售在线和智能服装的机器。
当我们看我们在全球发展前景的产业,我们发现自己明显滞后;虽然,很令人欣慰的是,我们的工厂已经开始从半自动到自动设置。
低度染色机、臭氧洗涤机、SAP、ERP等技术已成为普遍应用。
而且,近年来,我们在生态环境友好产业化方面取得了显著的进展。我们现在有67个绿色工厂,由美国绿色建筑委员会认证,其中13个是白金。
此外,280家工厂准备在获得美国绿色建筑委员会认证的,更多的是为它做准备。
跟上科技
虽然我们对环境的需求很好,但我们也必须利用新的模式和第四代技术,包括信息技术在我们的供应链管理中的先进应用,即物联网(物联网)。
与此同时,我们必须提高生产力和效率,这需要工厂的技术升级和现代化。
资源的快速和最佳利用将是未来商业成功和可持续发展的关键。展望未来,3D打印技术预计将给时装制造业和零售业带来重大的破坏。
得不到的事实,中国正在逐渐从基本的中档服装由于生产成本自满是很重要的。虽然这可能是我们成长我们在基本的服装市场份额的机会,也让我们陷在低端市场,为中国取得了较丰富的销售更昂贵的服装。
因此,我们应该密切观察中国是如何重新构建自己的产业,通过新技术的使用,自动化和先进的机器人技术中获得更多的竞争优势,以较低的价格提供创新产品。
时尚项目和创新的多样化是我们长期增长可持续性的关键领域。这是一个很好的迹象,表明孟加拉正准备满足高端和品牌时尚细分市场的需求。
近年来,我国成衣出口已扩大到包括像西装外套,内衣,运动装和休闲服,而非棉产品。我们必须减少对基本产品的依赖,并建立自己的能力,以满足高端和品牌时装部门的需求,以加速行业的增长。
考虑到技术升级对服装业未来成功的重要性,我们的竞争国家已经引进了专门的政策支持,如印度服装和纺织工业技术振兴基金计划。
孟加拉在过去的十年中在政府的“数字孟加拉国”倡议下取得了巨大的进展,我们现在必须把数字化的好处嵌入到我们需要政策支持的行业中。
这最终将为该国带来更多的出口收入。此外,我们的企业家需要了解行业中最新的技术进步,并积极主动地接受它们。
提高技能
就人口红利而言,孟加拉正经历一个黄金时代。大约70%的人口在40岁以下。
虽然有人担心技术会扼杀工作,但我们更应该关心的是,为什么我们有才华的年轻人中有一部分失业了,而一大批外国专家却在孟加拉高薪管理岗位工作。
我们的教育体系和产业之间的差距需要缩小。我们需要找出技能需求与供给之间的差距,在不久的将来解决行业变化的需要。
我们需要制造商、买方和专家之间更强有力的合作,以确定就业市场技能方面目前和未来的需要。
我们需要在知情的政策、适当的体制框架和有效分配资源以产生市场驱动的技能方面取得和谐的平衡。
毋庸置疑,孟加拉在制衣业35年的成功经验中,包括在1994消除童工,并在社会遵守方面取得了进展,已经成功地面对了许多挑战。
目前,我们正在研究工作场所安全和环境可持续性问题。我们正与政府、劳工组织、品牌和零售商、捐助者、国际机构和外国政府合作,确保工厂的工厂安全生产。
今天,我们自豪地说,孟加拉正处于一个工业化的新时代,可能是最安全的服装行业之一。
虽然我们采取了所有这些积极措施,我们的工厂越来越多地投资于安全和可持续性,我们仍然生活在降价的时代!
在高度竞争的自由市场经济中,价格不能由个别生产者来决定。但同时,价格必须足够高,以确保工人得到公平、有保障的工资。
由于技术进步将成为全球时尚供应链中所有合作伙伴的一个新的机会,因此需要在政府和发展伙伴支持下的买方和供应商之间建立合作方式,从而为所有人创造双赢局面。
只有在全球价值链中的利益相关者进行集体和合作行动时,才能发掘全球采购的机会。